What rootstock is
Every grafted tree is two parts: the variety you want (the top/scion) grafted onto a rootstock (the roots). The rootstock strongly influences the tree’s size, vigor, anchorage, drought tolerance, longevity, and how much fruit it ultimately produces.
Why Blue Hill uses vigorous STANDARD rootstock
Ryan’s analogy: compare a rural ranch house to a city skyscraper — by growing upward instead of a small dwarfing tree growing outward, a full-size tree produces significantly more fruit on a given footprint in the soil. For wildlife, the goal is a big, long-lived, heavy-producing tree (20–30′), not a 12′ bush for a tree that can fall over. Using this logic, you can jump to 30′ centers on trees and still grow a perennial plot below the trees and have the best of both worlds.
Advantages of the standard rootstocks we use:
- Deeper, stronger roots → superior anchorage (won’t topple in storms the way shallow-rooted clonal trees can without staking).
- Greater drought tolerance — roots penetrate deep into the subsoil, drawing up moisture and replenishing lost nutrients.
- Increased vigor — a real advantage in imperfect wildlife soils (e.g., pH ~5.2, sub-optimal fertility, mountain ground), where a standard tree still powers ahead.
- More fruit per tree, compounding year after year — a couple of fruits at year five doesn’t feed deer; a big standard tree at year five (and beyond) builds a real orchard.
Standard vs. clonal — a real example
In a side-by-side, a seedling standard-rooted graft measured ~1¼–1½″ caliper while a Bud 118 clonal graft of the same variety, grafted the same day, measured ~9/16″. Standard roots also go far deeper — a 2-year-old planted standard tree can be 3–4′ into the ground, whereas clonal stock might be 6 years old and still not 3′ deep. Clonal rootstocks (M111, Bud 118/119) make nice trees but grow mostly in the upper soil layers; for wildlife, standard wins.
Note on tubes: Ryan does not recommend growing apples on clonal/dwarf stock in tree tubes — they don’t build enough diameter to stand alone. Standard-rooted trees size up and support themselves.
Rootstocks we offer (for DIY grafters)
- Antonovka — cold-hardy, standard apple seedling rootstock; classic vigorous wildlife root.
- Malus Dolgo — vigorous standard apple seedling rootstock; in Ryan’s view “every bit as good or better than Antonovka, and way better than Bud 118 or M111” for wildlife.
- MastMaker™— The most vigorous standard hybrid apple seedling rootstock. It’s the best of both worlds: hardy in zones 4b-8, fast-growing, productive, and will produce a huge, well-rooted tree.
- Pear rootstock — standard seedling pear root for grafting pears.
- Persimmon rootstock — for grafting persimmons.
These let you graft your own trees at home (see Grafting & Propagation).
Bare-root delivery
All our trees ship bare root, not potted — which also protects the root system. A bare-root tree grown in the ground develops the deep, wide, non-circling roots described above, whereas a potted tree’s roots hit the pot wall and can become rootbound. For the full comparison, see Ordering, Shipping & Pickup → Bare-Root vs. Potted Trees.
Key takeaways
- For wildlife, standard rootstock = bigger tree, deeper roots, more drought tolerance, and much more fruit a given tree. And that only compounds year after year over the life of the tree.
- Clonal/dwarf roots suit commercial orchards and small yards, not deer plots.
- We sell Antonovka, Malus Dolgo, MastMaker™, pear, and persimmon rootstock for those who want to graft.
- NOTE: Rootstock availability can vary season to season